Michele StuevenIt’s been six months since native Angeleno chef Ray Garcia took over the menu at the Rose Venice in its 45th year, and it’s a playful and personal diversion from his Mexican and South American-inspired concepts like ¡VIVA! Las Vegas and Qué Bárbaro in DTLA.
The completely overhauled menu reflects a relaxed and casual little sister version of Garcia’s Asterid at the Walt Disney Concert Hall, featuring favorites that blend the flavors of LA, like a twist on his signature chicken liver mousse made with blackberry compote and Indonesian long pepper. It’s topped with fresh blackberries and feuilletine, a crispy crumbled confection made from thin, sweetened crêpes that puts the combination of sweet and savory into a whole new context.
Rose Venice Chicken Liver Mousse (Michele Stueven)
The wood-fired oven once employed for pizza now sizzles with grilled bread and blistered shishito peppers.
For starters, there’s homemade naan bread with a vibrant cashew muhammara and delicately spiced chile ancho with feta cheese, as well as Wagyu beef tartare made with beef tenderloin and black truffle blanketed in parmesan with house-made focaccia.
Another new addition to the menu is a Mediterranean take on Garcia’s love of lamb, with a fall-off-the-bone lamb neck nestled in harissa braised eggplant and dill yogurt served alongside more naan for dipping. Pair that with surprisingly crispy roasted Japanese sweet potato slathered in a yuzu kosho yogurt paste.
Rose versions of Asterid’s roasted John Givens carrots and brick-grilled maitake mushrooms with coconut curry, red chimichurri and scallions round out a menu of plant-based side orders. And on the subject of vegetables as a main course, the cauliflower Bolognese with tagliatelle, basil and parmesan is a vegetarian indulgence.
Always known for its pastry program since its humble hippie beginnings as a cafe, the Rose’s selection of baked goods and desserts is as robust as ever. Helmed by longtime pastry chef Jose Mariscal, the cases are filled with fresh strawberry cheese danishes and seasonal, specialty croissants. And if you happen to be celebrating a Girl’s Night Out Gemini birthday, dip into the Tropicana Pavlova made with tropical fruit, coconut whip, guava ice cream and macadamia nut crumble.
Lamb neck and crispy sweet potatoes (Michele Stueven)
Tropicana Pavlova (Michele Stueven)
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